Black Dog LED PhytoMax LED GrowLight Text & Review
A long day in Tucson… and a fun delivery at the door
Hey everyone—Nate from GrowersHouse. It’s been a long day over here. The monsoons came through Tucson and we only lost power twice today, so honestly, it was a good day. And then these showed up at our door: new prototype units for the Black Dog LED PhytoMax series.
What arrived: four new PhytoMax models
So this is what showed up: an 800 watt unit, a 600 watt unit, a 400 watt unit, and a 200 watt unit. These are the new four models that are going to replace (potentially) what Black Dog LED currently has in their Universal Series.
Black Dog LED has come out with their third iteration of the Phyto-Genesis spectrum they originally created. They had the Universal Series, and now they’re at the PhytoMax Series—and these have just come out. It put a smile on my face because now I get to test them.
What Black Dog LED changed and why it matters to growers
As soon as they came in, I asked Black Dog LED, “Why did you guys make a new light? What’s different about it?” What they told me: they redesigned the fixture to be lighter than the last series, and they made minor spectrum iterations to improve it over the previous model.
These lights still include a lot of UV/IR (roughly 365–750 nm), which many LED grow lights don’t. We’re going to put these under our spectrometer to verify what’s happening across the spectrum.
UV/IR vs PAR meter readings: the “missing” photons you should know about
One important note for growers: if you put a PAR meter under these lights, the UV/IR portion won’t show up the way you might expect. A PAR meter measures within the standard 400–700 nanometer range (visible light), so UV and IR are outside what it can read. That means some of the light output isn’t accounted for in the PAR numbers alone.
Why care? UV/IR can influence plant potency, compactness, and overall quality. That’s why more growers are asking for UV in their LED lighting as the industry matures—it’s not just about growing plants, it’s about growing the best quality plants possible.
Why we’re excited: comparing PhytoMax to the wider LED market
We’re excited to test these and see how they stack up against other LEDs in the market. The last time we tested their Universal Series was probably about two years ago, so we’re looking forward to seeing what’s changed and what it means in real-world grows.

Apples-to-apples LED comparisons: focus on watts drawn at the wall
One last thing before we jump in: when comparing LED grow lights, it’s important to understand the difference between what some companies call a “1000” or a “500” and what the unit actually draws at the wall. Sometimes a “1000” might pull 682 watts at the wall. That matters because wall draw is what you pay for (kilowatt hours on your electricity bill), and it’s also one of the best practical indicators of how much light output you’re likely getting.
What Black Dog LED does here is straightforward: their “800” draws 800 watts at the wall, and the 600, 400, and 200 follow the same logic. Other companies may label based on diode count times diode rating—like a “5 watt diode”—but not all “5 watt” diodes actually run at 5 watts in operation. So for growers, the cleanest comparison is always wall draw. That’s the real “apples to apples.”
If you’re measuring output in your space, having the right Light Meters also helps you map intensity and make better decisions about hanging height and coverage.
Spectrum snapshot: PhytoMax-2 800 and the UV bump
Here is the Black Dog LED PhytoMax-2 800 spectrum. You can see peaks around chlorophyll a and b (the blues and the reds), with a little more intensity in the reds for penetration and flowering support. Another thing we noticed in the spectral graph is a UV-A bump all the way to the left.

PAR mapping at 12, 24, and 36 inches: coverage over a 5×5 footprint
Now, moving into PAR charts at 12, 24, and 36 inches above the canopy: remember, that UV and IR intensity isn’t going to show up in these PAR numbers because it’s outside the PAR meter’s measurement range. So there can be intensity coming from this light that isn’t represented on the PAR chart alone.

You can see how it maps PAR intensity over the 5×5 footprint. For flowering, you’ll likely hang the light closer than 24 inches above the plants; for veg, you might run it closer to 36 inches above the canopy. Your exact height depends on crop type, canopy density, and target intensity—so it’s always smart to verify with a PAR meter and adjust gradually.
Results and conclusions: what this means for hydroponic growers
Seeing the UV bump in this light really prompted us to plan a broader test across the industry—especially on fixtures that include UV/IR or claim they have UV. Since UV/IR won’t be reflected in PAR readings, the goal is to validate what’s truly present in the spectrum and what that can mean for quality-focused growers.
Bottom line: if you’re designing or upgrading a grow room, don’t rely on model names alone. Compare lights by actual watts drawn at the wall, use appropriate meters to map intensity, and remember that UV/IR can contribute to plant quality even when it doesn’t show up in PAR numbers. I hope this helps you map your space and choose the best LED grow light for your particular canopy and goals.
This is Nate from GrowersHouse—happy growing!